2009 Year in (Edible) Review

Dear Readers:

As we enter the futuristic sounding year of 2010, I want to take a moment to reflect on the endlessly changing, fascinating food industry.

The obvious focus going into the year was, aside from the new President, the disastrous economy. Doomsdayers predicted financial meltdown, a depression on par with that of the 1930s, socialism, an extended dark cold winter. The focus remains the economy at year’s end and we aren’t through the tunnel yet. Hardships abound and recovery is still mired in uncertainty. Some of those struggling are the hard workers serving us in restaurants, food carts, bodegas, and coffee shops. Life wasn’t easy for them and it certainly isn’t easier now. But, keeping fingers crossed, it appears things won’t be quite as bad as of some have predicted.

I have been impressed with, though not surprised by, the tenacity and determination of restaurants to buckle down, make it work somehow, and let passion be the guide. I like to think that it’s emblematic of the spirit that has helped countries around the globe navigate the height of economic difficulties. So the first thought that comes to mind is: Hats off to restaurant owners and workers, once again, for finding a way to provide unparalleled experiences and awe-inspiring creations, despite even slimmer margins. Unfortunately, there were, like in every year, those whose businesses did not survive to see a new year – the realities of this industry are sometimes brutal but there is much to be said for the guts it takes to try. Hats off all around.

“Recession dining” – dining on a limited budget – was at the forefront of nearly everyone’s thinking this year and oddly enough, it seemed to become a trend itself: Bargain meals, innovative discounts, new incentives, and delicious ways to put less expensive cuts of meat or ingredients to work. The fad in tight times became the challenge of making something out of nothing. We saw this in the explosion of Vietnamese sandwiches, ramen, high-end pizza, supped up burgers, and those scrappy food trucks serving increasingly delicious food (sausage and peppers, burgers and fries, waffles, bbq, ice cream, chicken and rice, dumplings, schnitzel, tacos, etc). The trucks, like some kind of magic trick, churned out tremendous volumes of food, and became a legit eating option. At the same time, high-end restaurants squeezed profit margins tighter, offered discounts on Monday nights, created reduced price prix fixe combos, and made less prized parts of animal a feature of the dish. Braised shoulder was the new filet mignon.

Perhaps we were dining in recession times, but did it really taste like it? No, it was still awesome. Did we have any less fun? Nope, not that I could tell. Was it a little more casual? Maybe, but maybe we needed that. For those who wanted the same high-end experience, that was still available too and pushing that bar ever higher. The best food I had this year was at Café Boulud. Across this industry, the adaptive abilities and quality of output were truly impressive.

Each year that I live in New York, my views on food and the restaurant experience mature. During this process, I’ve leaned increasingly away from the numbers in that overrated red book Zagat or even the stars in the venerable New York Times reviews. I think it’s important to remember that there isn’t always a one best thing, nor is it possible to bucket restaurants quite so simply in neat rating categories. While I still like to wax poetic about restaurants in front of my readership of none, I like less and less the process of attaching a number to restaurants. As I heard Dan Barber say at the Bronx Botanical Gardens food festival, context is so important when it comes to food.

Isolating a small few amongst a wide universe can be a negative exercise because it can become a search for failures as much as successes. It’s fun to play the critic sometimes but I hope never to let that get in the way of my primary purpose for dining out – enjoyment. I find myself looking more and more for reasons to like a restaurant, not tear it down. I believe it’s healthy to think about the human element behind the scenes – the farmers toiling for ingredients that you left on the plate, the hardworking dishwashers and cooks working feverishly in the heat while everyone else is out socializing, the servers who bow to demands of a demanding customer at night and try to beat the odds as a performing artist during the day.

Sure things can be imperfect but barring plain rudeness or a noticeable lack of interest in doing a good job, I’ve come to put more and more value in an honest effort. Kids are taught: Try your hardest, that’s all anyone can ask for. All too often, there’s a higher expectation than that in this industry. The reality is that sometimes, a pork chop is overcooked, a sauce is overseasoned, a wine glass tips over, or a fingerprint is left on a plate. But let’s not forget and appreciate everything that went right. It pains me to see anonymous CitySearchers and Yelpers whose comments are not only disparaging and entitled, but also unconstructive and mean. I often think, what if coworkers and clients had similar internet forums to post anonymous comments about each of us in our daily jobs? How would that make us feel?

These meals can be such a beautiful experience – even in the imperfections. I had a meal this year in the Berkshires where the server was perhaps a little loopy and slightly forgetful, but nonetheless full of effort and character. She forgot the sautéed mushrooms and onions I asked for on my burger, which I didn’t realize until long after the meal was over. But it didn’t matter (clearly, or else I would have noticed immediately); actually, her honest mistake and style of service added character to the meal. It’s a fun memory for us and I don’t think I would remember it as well had it not been for that.

Looking ahead, I have no great insights for 2010 but I am eager and excited and I hope to eat a lobster.

My favorite new restaurant of 2009 is Aldea.
My favorite restaurant experience overall in 2009 is Cyrus.

Happy New Year!