4/4/2009
Lower East Side: 78 Rivington St (at Allen St) - (212) 529-3901
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 8
Full Review:
Kampuchea is an unpretentious corner restaurant serving thoughtful, soulful Cambodian cuisine with service to match. In New York, there’s no ceiling to the price you can pay for a meal but Kampuchea is proof that you don’t need a huge budget for a memorable night out. For a modest and fair price, you’ll get tasty, interesting food with a touch of the upscale flair in a setting that encourages you to relax and enjoy both company and food. For small to medium-sized groups, it’s a great bet.
Kampuchea is in the Lower East Side, slightly off the madhouse of Ludlow Street bars and restaurants, Kampuchea blends well with the hip vibe of the neighborhood but doesn’t feel overrun or like a “place to be seen.” The restaurant maintains a your-favorite-hole-in-the-wall-feel and friendliness, but with contemporary, tasteful décor. The rows of communal tables work well in a shop of this variety, and enhance the warm, convivial environment.
Upon first glance, you might think that this is a noodle shop. Indeed, you’ll see big steaming bowls of noodles and steam rising from the boiling water in the open kitchen. But there’s a lot more to the restaurant than meets the eye. Perhaps the most wow-ing dish was the tamarind baby back ribs appetizer with a cilantro and lime dipping sauce. It’s not easy to differentiate yourself with something like ribs, which are ubiquitous at this point, and usually delicious wherever you try them. However, these ribs are truly outstanding and some of the best I’ve had. The meat is firmly on the bone at presentation but gives way instantly upon first bite. The flavor is tangy and unconventional and the outside is crisp. It’s the kind of dish where you’ll hear the people at your table involuntarily muttering, “Oh my God.” By contrast, grilled corn is another now commoditized dish and Kampuchea’s is good but not particularly remarkable.
The restaurant also features mouthwatering sandwiches (Cambodian Num Pang) served on delicious crispy baguettes. They come with a chili mayonnaise that, even for the mayo hesitant folk, is tasty, indulgent, and delightful. In these sandwiches, the mayo isn’t just slapped on there as a matter of course because it’s a sandwich – rather it was consciously put there to work in conjunction with the other elements of the sandwich.
That seems to be a feature of the dishes at this restaurant in general: careful thought and ingredients with purpose. I asked Chef Ratha Chau for his personal recommendation on what to pick – he replied, in all sincerity, that he couldn’t say because he was so proud of each item on the menu. And when you look at the menu, it is indeed difficult to find an item that doesn’t sound awesome. Whether you speak to Chef Chau or you simply observe his restaurant, it’s clear that he treats his food seriously and has put his heart and soul behind his operation.
We tasted the tiger shrimp with coconut, ginger rubbed catfish, and roasted pork sandwiches – all are juicy and have you craving the next bite even as you work on taking down the one you just took. They come with some pickled red cabbage condiment to cool off your mouth and provide a nice acidic contrast to the savory flavors of the sandwiches. These are sandwiches at a premium but they offer a satisfaction that makes them a bargain.
Service at Kampuchea is personable and accommodating and since it’s a casual feel to the restaurant, the staff is circling about but not in your face. And thankfully, unlike many noodle shops, they’re also not trying to force you along. The host vastly undershot our wait time but luckily, we weren’t pressed for time. I can imagine this place getting packed in, especially on a weekend, so leave enough time for a wait.
Noodle dishes and sandwiches do come cheaper, but for the quality and experience, Kampuchea is hard to beat. In any other city, this restaurant is a star. And in New York City, it’s still a gem, even if you don’t see it in the food sections of papers and magazines everyday.
Showing posts with label Price: Mid-Range. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Price: Mid-Range. Show all posts
Saturday, April 4, 2009
Sunday, September 28, 2008
Lucali
9/28/2008
Lucali pizza is a top notch pizza operation with a cozy, fragrant, rustic setting. This is the kind of place that could easily be in the running for the oft-discusssed "best pizza in New York" distinction. In combination with the pizza itself, a very pleasant dining area, and it's one of the best pizza joints I've ever been to.
The bubbly, slightly burnt crust of the brick-oven pizza is fairly thin and crusty but also has a layer of soft doughy-ness to it as well. The sauce is a slightly sweet tomato sauce with a range of basic toppings: basil, mushrooms, artichoke, onions, olives, garlic, mozzarella cheese, pepperoni, etc. But they keep it refreshingly simple, emphasizing the quality of the ingredients and the pizza crust. This pizza was light and I didn't feel weighted down like I had eaten a pizza dinner; in this respect, it reminded me a lot of Franny's, another outstanding Brooklyn pizzeria.
No way around it, Lucali's is awesome. If you're serious about pizza, you should make a visit.
Carroll Gardens: 575 Henry St (near Carroll St) - (718) 858-4086
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 8
Lucali pizza is a top notch pizza operation with a cozy, fragrant, rustic setting. This is the kind of place that could easily be in the running for the oft-discusssed "best pizza in New York" distinction. In combination with the pizza itself, a very pleasant dining area, and it's one of the best pizza joints I've ever been to.
The bubbly, slightly burnt crust of the brick-oven pizza is fairly thin and crusty but also has a layer of soft doughy-ness to it as well. The sauce is a slightly sweet tomato sauce with a range of basic toppings: basil, mushrooms, artichoke, onions, olives, garlic, mozzarella cheese, pepperoni, etc. But they keep it refreshingly simple, emphasizing the quality of the ingredients and the pizza crust. This pizza was light and I didn't feel weighted down like I had eaten a pizza dinner; in this respect, it reminded me a lot of Franny's, another outstanding Brooklyn pizzeria.Other offerings on the menu are limited to calzones. So if you're not looking for pizza or calzone, obviously Lucali's is not the place to go. I appreciate the focus here as I think it only makes their craft better and more consistent. There is genuine effort put into a high quality product here - stemming from owner Mark Iacono, who built and opened the restaurant two years ago after deciding to jump into the world of pizza on no experience.
The eating area is separated from the kitchen by only a counter where uncut vegetables are displayed. Perhaps the radiant heat from the brick over is the reason it's a bit toasty in here. But it also adds to a nice sense of kitchen cozyness because you are in the kitchen. The dimly lit room is romantic and fun, with a slight buzz echoing through the high-ceilinged room. The decor is rustic, wood, just what you'd expect. Service at Lucali is relaxed, responsive, and very friendly. It's casual joint and the service keeps it chill as well.
A few other helpful tidbits: it's byob (which means you have to bring drinks and perhaps risk that they'll get warm while you're waiting - but also means a cheaper bill! There's a few bodega's a couple blocks away); it's cash only; and you'll have to wait, outside. Call ahead. You can also get to-go pizzas, although it's never nearly as good as eating it there.
Sunday, July 27, 2008
Barrio
8/9/2008
Park Slope: 210 7th Ave (and 3rd St) - (718) 965-4000
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 7
If you find yourself strolling around the Park Slope neighborhood or vicinity, you should stop by Barrio for a relaxed atmosphere and solid Mexican food. I thought a rating of 7 might be high but in the end, decided it fair considering for the atmosphere, the quality of the food, and the value.
The food is fresh and light - a pleasant change from other Mexican joints that, though satisfying, leave you feeling like jabba the hut. I enjoyed the flavors in all of the dishes that I tried - and the variety of flavors in particular: delicious calamari-conconut flavored rice with spicy grilled shrimp; a "chile arbol" peanut mole, which tastes strongly of peanut and goes with a roast pork; or a chicken enchilada in a red salsa puree with more typical heat and a bit of tanginess. The seasoned doesn't burn your mouth out or go crazy with one element - sweet, sour, spicy, etc - and offset the balance - in fact, the food both in taste, freshness, and composition achieves a nice balance.
The fish tacos appetizer - though small in portion - were light and pleasantly simple, letting the ingredients be themselves with cilantro, cabbage, and citrus. The Yucatan shrimp dish were meaty, juicy (and not rubbery), strongly seasoned, and nicely charred. And the chicken enchilada was gone in about 5 minutes - the cheese (a crumbled queso fresco), raw onion, red salsa sauce, along with the chicken and tortilla were simply a great combo that and no part of it was unpleasant.
Improvements could be made - such as the addition of a starch to the Puebla pork dish, which would have been better served over rice to catch some of the pork juice and sauce. And I do wonder about the authenticity of the menu - some of the stuff they could do without like the chile caesar salad or granola and yogurt served at brunch. The concern is not only that it makes it disappointingly generic, but also might bring into question the ability to produce real Mexican food. It strikes me as a lack of confidence to stick with one true theme.
As enjoyable as the food at Barrio is the atmosphere, particularly in the warmer weather with all the open windows and a large outdoor eating area, looking out onto the stoller-filled, but pleasant and spacious intersection at 7th ave and 3rd st. With relaxing music (which I can't name) playing through the speakers and friendly, personable, unpretentious servers, the ambiance is calming and struck me as a place you could come back to consistently, for casual dinners, dates, or just to chill and grab a quick drink or bite. Although the owners seemed to have gotten it right with a lot of things about Barrio, the color selection of the exterior awning is a bit odd - bright orange and pink. On the one hand, its loud and vibrant and is about energy, but it's a bit of a shock. They say that people go crazy sitting in a red room - sitting under the awning outside on a sunny day might be a good place to conduct that experiment. I opted to sit inside given the heat lamp-like glow. I'll go when it's nighttime.
When I first visited Barrio, the service was a bit cluttered since it was one of the first weeks of operation, but they have since gotten into rhythm and continue to be a friendly establishment. Although it is possible to rack up a hefty bill here, especially if you get into the drink menu, there are more than enough very reasonable items so that you don't get to the cusp of feeling a significant pinch on the wallet. Given the fun atmosphere, good value, and quality of food, I wouldn't be surprised if Barrio starts to build up a contingent of neighborhood "regulars." I'm considering it myself.
Park Slope: 210 7th Ave (and 3rd St) - (718) 965-4000
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 7
If you find yourself strolling around the Park Slope neighborhood or vicinity, you should stop by Barrio for a relaxed atmosphere and solid Mexican food. I thought a rating of 7 might be high but in the end, decided it fair considering for the atmosphere, the quality of the food, and the value.The food is fresh and light - a pleasant change from other Mexican joints that, though satisfying, leave you feeling like jabba the hut. I enjoyed the flavors in all of the dishes that I tried - and the variety of flavors in particular: delicious calamari-conconut flavored rice with spicy grilled shrimp; a "chile arbol" peanut mole, which tastes strongly of peanut and goes with a roast pork; or a chicken enchilada in a red salsa puree with more typical heat and a bit of tanginess. The seasoned doesn't burn your mouth out or go crazy with one element - sweet, sour, spicy, etc - and offset the balance - in fact, the food both in taste, freshness, and composition achieves a nice balance.
The fish tacos appetizer - though small in portion - were light and pleasantly simple, letting the ingredients be themselves with cilantro, cabbage, and citrus. The Yucatan shrimp dish were meaty, juicy (and not rubbery), strongly seasoned, and nicely charred. And the chicken enchilada was gone in about 5 minutes - the cheese (a crumbled queso fresco), raw onion, red salsa sauce, along with the chicken and tortilla were simply a great combo that and no part of it was unpleasant.
Improvements could be made - such as the addition of a starch to the Puebla pork dish, which would have been better served over rice to catch some of the pork juice and sauce. And I do wonder about the authenticity of the menu - some of the stuff they could do without like the chile caesar salad or granola and yogurt served at brunch. The concern is not only that it makes it disappointingly generic, but also might bring into question the ability to produce real Mexican food. It strikes me as a lack of confidence to stick with one true theme.
As enjoyable as the food at Barrio is the atmosphere, particularly in the warmer weather with all the open windows and a large outdoor eating area, looking out onto the stoller-filled, but pleasant and spacious intersection at 7th ave and 3rd st. With relaxing music (which I can't name) playing through the speakers and friendly, personable, unpretentious servers, the ambiance is calming and struck me as a place you could come back to consistently, for casual dinners, dates, or just to chill and grab a quick drink or bite. Although the owners seemed to have gotten it right with a lot of things about Barrio, the color selection of the exterior awning is a bit odd - bright orange and pink. On the one hand, its loud and vibrant and is about energy, but it's a bit of a shock. They say that people go crazy sitting in a red room - sitting under the awning outside on a sunny day might be a good place to conduct that experiment. I opted to sit inside given the heat lamp-like glow. I'll go when it's nighttime.
When I first visited Barrio, the service was a bit cluttered since it was one of the first weeks of operation, but they have since gotten into rhythm and continue to be a friendly establishment. Although it is possible to rack up a hefty bill here, especially if you get into the drink menu, there are more than enough very reasonable items so that you don't get to the cusp of feeling a significant pinch on the wallet. Given the fun atmosphere, good value, and quality of food, I wouldn't be surprised if Barrio starts to build up a contingent of neighborhood "regulars." I'm considering it myself.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
Street and Co
7/17/2008
Street and Co is the kind of restaurant that seems to blend perfectly with a quaint costal town like Portland. The food is solid and comes out with exciting presentation, but above all, the ambiance gets you in the mood for a cozy New England seafood experience. Service is casual here and it's not particularly remarkable but it's friendly enough.
The plates get more dramatic with the entrees, headlined by the lobster diavolo: a mammoth two person pasta in a saute pan, loaded down with a red sauce packed with an assortment of seafood including mussels, squid, lobster in the shell. When you see this on the menu, you figure, "when in Rome..." The diavolo is good enough but the joy of this dish comes less from the taste of the food and more from seeing the presentation and all the stuff in the sauce. The food itself could use some refinement: the sauce was quite oversalted, for one. And when cracking the lobster claws, water came rushing out into the dish, watering down the sauce. Clipping the ends of the claws prior to putting it in the dish would drain a lot of this water. The more simple lobster with butter-garlic sauce over pasta is a similar dish that tastes better - but perhaps it's not as exciting or chaotic as the diavolo. But one thing to emphasize is that with either one, and most any other dish I saw, is that you get your money's worth. These are very generous portions and they don't sacrifice the quality of the ingredients. I like places like this because it feels very hospitable.
The service is a bit scattered but not intended to be super-high end anyway. They might forget a thing or two that you ask for, or more than one person might come over and ask you the same question. But the weaknesses are not egregious and the bottom line is that you come to have a good time, and in places like these, you don't hold the staff over the fire. You get friendly, warm atmosphere and pleasing food for good value. Of course, for Street and Co to take it to the next level and really be a place that grabs a spot in your heart, it'll have to improve the personability and attention to detail in its service.
Portland, Maine: 33 Wharf St - (207) 775-0887
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 7
Street and Co is the kind of restaurant that seems to blend perfectly with a quaint costal town like Portland. The food is solid and comes out with exciting presentation, but above all, the ambiance gets you in the mood for a cozy New England seafood experience. Service is casual here and it's not particularly remarkable but it's friendly enough. Dim candle light, exposed brick, bunches of dried herbs hanging from wooden ceiling beams, simple white tshirt server uniforms, and an extremely aromatic interior all contribute to a rustic, warm atmosphere. It's a lot easier said than done to create this kind of environment without it being cheesy or forced or pretentious. The 'organic' feel is kind of trendy right now but Street and Co feels like a place that was onto it long before.
The food is more or less Italian with heavy doses of seafood, which you expect and want, being on the water in lobster capital USA. Many of the dishes (presumably those cooked on the stovetop) come out served in an actual beat-up saute pan, which adds to the simple and straightforward idea - no dots and swirls and Miro-looking dishes here. The mussels appetizer is truly delicious, with a rich, garlicky broth. You could just dip bread (which is from nearby Standard Bakery and also delicious) into this broth all night and leave totally happy. The crab and avocado appetizer is uncomplicated and fresh with a very generous serving of crab; it's a good selection if you're looking for light, healthy, unadulterated taste of the sea - the only downside is that the meat is mostly broken up and you don't get the large lumps o' crab that offer big, meaty bites.
The plates get more dramatic with the entrees, headlined by the lobster diavolo: a mammoth two person pasta in a saute pan, loaded down with a red sauce packed with an assortment of seafood including mussels, squid, lobster in the shell. When you see this on the menu, you figure, "when in Rome..." The diavolo is good enough but the joy of this dish comes less from the taste of the food and more from seeing the presentation and all the stuff in the sauce. The food itself could use some refinement: the sauce was quite oversalted, for one. And when cracking the lobster claws, water came rushing out into the dish, watering down the sauce. Clipping the ends of the claws prior to putting it in the dish would drain a lot of this water. The more simple lobster with butter-garlic sauce over pasta is a similar dish that tastes better - but perhaps it's not as exciting or chaotic as the diavolo. But one thing to emphasize is that with either one, and most any other dish I saw, is that you get your money's worth. These are very generous portions and they don't sacrifice the quality of the ingredients. I like places like this because it feels very hospitable.
The service is a bit scattered but not intended to be super-high end anyway. They might forget a thing or two that you ask for, or more than one person might come over and ask you the same question. But the weaknesses are not egregious and the bottom line is that you come to have a good time, and in places like these, you don't hold the staff over the fire. You get friendly, warm atmosphere and pleasing food for good value. Of course, for Street and Co to take it to the next level and really be a place that grabs a spot in your heart, it'll have to improve the personability and attention to detail in its service.When you go visit Portland, Maine, I think it's this kind of dining experience you're looking for. You come to the town because you want to cozy, quaint, relaxed feel - and you want to get hit over the head with seafood. Street and Co delivers well on all of those things.
Saturday, June 21, 2008
Meskerem Ethiopian Restaurant
6/21/2008
Washington DC: Adams Morgan - (202) 462-4100
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 4
The quick and dirty:
Meskerem is decent. While it might be fun to come here and eat Ethiopian cuisine in a traditional way, sitting around a circular table and eating with hands and injera - the spongy Ethiopian bread, my recommendation is guarded: the food isn't that good, the service is mostly indifferent, and it can feel cramped and uncomfortable. The ball could roll either way - maybe good, maybe not.
Full review:
Meskerem is decent. With a group of friends, it might be fun to come here and eat Ethiopian cuisine in a traditional way, sitting around a circular table and eating with hands and injera - the spongy Ethiopian bread on which the food is served. But my recommendation is guarded: the food isn't that good, the service is there but indifferent, and it can feel cramped and uncomfortable. The ball could roll either way - maybe good, maybe not.
While I appreciate an effort to create authenticity in the experience, given a choice, I'd forgo the realness of the experience for a more comfortable arrangement. I sat essentially knee to knee with the people sitting next to me, huddling over the table - on a fairly hot night with only decent air conditioning. And because I was eating with my hands, I sat unsure of what to do with them once they got messy, not wanting to touch anything. The crowded room was noisy and it was difficult to carry on conversation across the table, which cuts down on the group experience that you're there for. Call me conservative but the fun-vs-uncomfortable/inconvenient balance tipped in the direction of the latter.
The food is not bad but in my memory, it all blends together - similar in flavor, color, texture, look. The menu is large but many of the selections have the same sauces only on different vegetables or meats. We tried a sampler platter for the group and two shrimp dishes a la carte. A shrimp and vegetable dish was the best thanks to a strong shrimp flavor, but in both, the small shrimp were way overcooked. Chicken comes served on the bone - which, if shared, is a bit awkward when you go digging your fingers into the meat to rip off a chunk. But it's tasty with the sauce. At the end of the day though, it's not food that I have a yearning to go back for.
Though I found the manager of the restaurant to be friendly, his staff
did not carry the same aura. Instead, it felt like they were just doing a job - seating you, getting you stuff, bringing you food, bringing you the check. While there was nothing offensive about the service, there was little done to make you feel like more than just another customer. Like the food, our service was passsable but definitely unispired.
I think people go here to eat Ethiopian food, not so much for this particular restaurant itself. If you're in that boat, then try some lesser priced fare elsewhere, sample around, and see what kind of Ethiopian food you like.
Washington DC: Adams Morgan - (202) 462-4100
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 4
The quick and dirty:
Meskerem is decent. While it might be fun to come here and eat Ethiopian cuisine in a traditional way, sitting around a circular table and eating with hands and injera - the spongy Ethiopian bread, my recommendation is guarded: the food isn't that good, the service is mostly indifferent, and it can feel cramped and uncomfortable. The ball could roll either way - maybe good, maybe not.
Full review:
Meskerem is decent. With a group of friends, it might be fun to come here and eat Ethiopian cuisine in a traditional way, sitting around a circular table and eating with hands and injera - the spongy Ethiopian bread on which the food is served. But my recommendation is guarded: the food isn't that good, the service is there but indifferent, and it can feel cramped and uncomfortable. The ball could roll either way - maybe good, maybe not.
While I appreciate an effort to create authenticity in the experience, given a choice, I'd forgo the realness of the experience for a more comfortable arrangement. I sat essentially knee to knee with the people sitting next to me, huddling over the table - on a fairly hot night with only decent air conditioning. And because I was eating with my hands, I sat unsure of what to do with them once they got messy, not wanting to touch anything. The crowded room was noisy and it was difficult to carry on conversation across the table, which cuts down on the group experience that you're there for. Call me conservative but the fun-vs-uncomfortable/inconvenient balance tipped in the direction of the latter.The food is not bad but in my memory, it all blends together - similar in flavor, color, texture, look. The menu is large but many of the selections have the same sauces only on different vegetables or meats. We tried a sampler platter for the group and two shrimp dishes a la carte. A shrimp and vegetable dish was the best thanks to a strong shrimp flavor, but in both, the small shrimp were way overcooked. Chicken comes served on the bone - which, if shared, is a bit awkward when you go digging your fingers into the meat to rip off a chunk. But it's tasty with the sauce. At the end of the day though, it's not food that I have a yearning to go back for.
Though I found the manager of the restaurant to be friendly, his staff
did not carry the same aura. Instead, it felt like they were just doing a job - seating you, getting you stuff, bringing you food, bringing you the check. While there was nothing offensive about the service, there was little done to make you feel like more than just another customer. Like the food, our service was passsable but definitely unispired.I think people go here to eat Ethiopian food, not so much for this particular restaurant itself. If you're in that boat, then try some lesser priced fare elsewhere, sample around, and see what kind of Ethiopian food you like.
Saturday, May 31, 2008
Wildwood BBQ
5/31/2008
Gramercy: 225 Park Avenue (nr 18th St) - 212-533-2500
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 6
The quick and dirty:
BBQ is fun and eating BBQ should be fun. That's why Wildwood BBQ is a success. The food is good, the atmosphere is lively, comfortable, and relaxed. The menu is manageable and straightforward, not too many items but all the ones that you're looking for. It's good for parties of all sizes and the menu allows for easy sharing and sampling, as bbq should.
Wildwood's food is close to on par with its neighbor, Blue Smoke, but it doesn't have quite the same level of coziness or atmosphere. The decor and feel of the place is a slightly forced faux-western with stereotypical bbq-ish things. This is very Gramercy western. But at the same time, who really cares? It's fun if you go with it.
The Memphis-style baby-back ribs are smokier than any urban bbq I've tasted, and have a good carmelized sweet-spicy glaze. The meats I had were surprisingly dry though: the ribs, the Texas smoked beef brisket and the pulled pork. The food isn't head over heels amazing but the flavors are nice and the sauces are pretty good. Luckily, you have the caddy of sauces on the table to douse your food. The chicken is not bad but it's nothin' particularly notable so you might as well go for the things that truly reak of bbq like ribs, brisket, or even a burger.
Wildwood's strength is its service. Our server was unpushy and friendly but also attentive - just what you want to go with your slow cookin'. It was clear that they cared - almost seemed like they embodied the youth of the restaurant and were working hard to establish themselves.
You've got a solid barbeque option in Wildwood. The service is fun and relaxed. The food doesn't astound but it'll satisfy your bbq fix. Hopefully they can figure out a way to retain more juiciness in their meats and add better sauces on the table but all in all, you'll get your money's worth.
Full review:
BBQ is fun and eating BBQ should be fun. If it's not, there's a problem. That's why Wildwood BBQ is a success. The food is good, the atmosphere is lively, comfortable, and relaxed. It's good for parties of all sizes and the menu allows for easy sharing and sampling, as bbq should.
But Wildwood isn't stunningly original. The most obvious comparison that comes to mind is nearby Blue Smoke, the bbq joint that has probably rooted itself most deeply in the hearts of New Yorkers. Wildwood's food is on par with Blue Smoke but doesn't have quite the same coziness or atmosphere. The decor and feel of the place is a slightly forced faux-western with stereotypical bbq-ish things: lots of exposed wood, chalkboards with menus scrawled on them, mason jar cups, iron beams, etc. This is very Gramercy western and it's a little too manufactured and new to be believable as authentic wild west environment (something that Blue Smoke is wise not to attempt). But at the same time, who really cares? You're there to have fun and as long as the food is tasty, you'll enjoy yourself if you just go with it. Blue Smoke remains the gold standard but still, the city is far from saturated with good bbq options - at least of the non-Dallas BBQ variety. As this restaurant grows and matures, people might gush about this place the way they do about its top competitor and neighbor.
The food is good and it's affordable, especially when taking into account the overall experience you get. The Memphis-style baby-back ribs are smokier than any urban bbq I've tasted, and come slathered in a delicious carmelized sweet-spicy glaze: the heat of the chipotle goes well
with the raspberry, which has a nice sweet-but-not-too-sweet balance. The problem is that the ribs are surprisingly dry, as is the Texas smoked beef brisket and the pulled pork. Luckily, you have the caddy of sauces on the table to douse your food in. Of the sauces, the chipotle-raspberry doesn't taste as good out of the bottle but the tangy bbq will do the trick with any of the meats. The pulled pork isn't your usual variety - it's not dunked in sauce or shredded too finely, and it's a little firmer in texture. It was tasty but it might not be what you picture if you're used to a more conventional pulled pork. The roast chicken is ordinary. The meat is juicy but the smoke and flavor don't penetrate the meat. Sprinkle the rib dust on the meat, however, and it's really tasty. Still, this bird doesn't hold a candle to other whole chicken preparations in non-bbq restaurants like Peruvian rotisserie chicken; if you're at Wildwood, you might as well go for the things that truly reak of bbq like ribs, brisket, or even a burger.
Wildwood BBQ's strength is its service. And it's important that they nail it because it's what the atmopshere hinges on. Our server was pleasantly unpushy and friendly but also attentive - just what you want to go with your slow cookin'. The restaurant management either has done
a good job recruiting or they've done a great job instilling a warm and fun culture in only a few weeks of existence, or both. Some details were missed, such as empty waters or a lack of extra plates for sharing. But they did other things to "go the extra mile": they repeatedly brought fresh new mugs of good tasting coffee and nearly ran after us when we had left a magazine at the table. It was clear that they cared; it almost seemed like they embodied the youth of the restaurant and were working hard to establish themselves. Sometimes, the food takes a back seat (or a sideseat) when the people are so pleasant.
Bottom line is, if are you looking for barbeque then you've got a solid option in Wildwood. The menu is manageable and pleasantly straightforward, not too many items but all the ones that you're looking for. The food doesn't astound but it'll satisfy your bbq fix, and the experience is versatile so you can go there for a variety of non-vegetarian occasions. The service is fun and relaxed - just what you want when you walk in the door. Hopefully they can figure out a way to retain more juiciness in their meats and add better sauces on the table but all in all, you'll get your money's worth.
Gramercy: 225 Park Avenue (nr 18th St) - 212-533-2500
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 6
The quick and dirty:
BBQ is fun and eating BBQ should be fun. That's why Wildwood BBQ is a success. The food is good, the atmosphere is lively, comfortable, and relaxed. The menu is manageable and straightforward, not too many items but all the ones that you're looking for. It's good for parties of all sizes and the menu allows for easy sharing and sampling, as bbq should.Wildwood's food is close to on par with its neighbor, Blue Smoke, but it doesn't have quite the same level of coziness or atmosphere. The decor and feel of the place is a slightly forced faux-western with stereotypical bbq-ish things. This is very Gramercy western. But at the same time, who really cares? It's fun if you go with it.
The Memphis-style baby-back ribs are smokier than any urban bbq I've tasted, and have a good carmelized sweet-spicy glaze. The meats I had were surprisingly dry though: the ribs, the Texas smoked beef brisket and the pulled pork. The food isn't head over heels amazing but the flavors are nice and the sauces are pretty good. Luckily, you have the caddy of sauces on the table to douse your food. The chicken is not bad but it's nothin' particularly notable so you might as well go for the things that truly reak of bbq like ribs, brisket, or even a burger.Wildwood's strength is its service. Our server was unpushy and friendly but also attentive - just what you want to go with your slow cookin'. It was clear that they cared - almost seemed like they embodied the youth of the restaurant and were working hard to establish themselves.
You've got a solid barbeque option in Wildwood. The service is fun and relaxed. The food doesn't astound but it'll satisfy your bbq fix. Hopefully they can figure out a way to retain more juiciness in their meats and add better sauces on the table but all in all, you'll get your money's worth.
Full review:
BBQ is fun and eating BBQ should be fun. If it's not, there's a problem. That's why Wildwood BBQ is a success. The food is good, the atmosphere is lively, comfortable, and relaxed. It's good for parties of all sizes and the menu allows for easy sharing and sampling, as bbq should.
But Wildwood isn't stunningly original. The most obvious comparison that comes to mind is nearby Blue Smoke, the bbq joint that has probably rooted itself most deeply in the hearts of New Yorkers. Wildwood's food is on par with Blue Smoke but doesn't have quite the same coziness or atmosphere. The decor and feel of the place is a slightly forced faux-western with stereotypical bbq-ish things: lots of exposed wood, chalkboards with menus scrawled on them, mason jar cups, iron beams, etc. This is very Gramercy western and it's a little too manufactured and new to be believable as authentic wild west environment (something that Blue Smoke is wise not to attempt). But at the same time, who really cares? You're there to have fun and as long as the food is tasty, you'll enjoy yourself if you just go with it. Blue Smoke remains the gold standard but still, the city is far from saturated with good bbq options - at least of the non-Dallas BBQ variety. As this restaurant grows and matures, people might gush about this place the way they do about its top competitor and neighbor.The food is good and it's affordable, especially when taking into account the overall experience you get. The Memphis-style baby-back ribs are smokier than any urban bbq I've tasted, and come slathered in a delicious carmelized sweet-spicy glaze: the heat of the chipotle goes well
with the raspberry, which has a nice sweet-but-not-too-sweet balance. The problem is that the ribs are surprisingly dry, as is the Texas smoked beef brisket and the pulled pork. Luckily, you have the caddy of sauces on the table to douse your food in. Of the sauces, the chipotle-raspberry doesn't taste as good out of the bottle but the tangy bbq will do the trick with any of the meats. The pulled pork isn't your usual variety - it's not dunked in sauce or shredded too finely, and it's a little firmer in texture. It was tasty but it might not be what you picture if you're used to a more conventional pulled pork. The roast chicken is ordinary. The meat is juicy but the smoke and flavor don't penetrate the meat. Sprinkle the rib dust on the meat, however, and it's really tasty. Still, this bird doesn't hold a candle to other whole chicken preparations in non-bbq restaurants like Peruvian rotisserie chicken; if you're at Wildwood, you might as well go for the things that truly reak of bbq like ribs, brisket, or even a burger.Wildwood BBQ's strength is its service. And it's important that they nail it because it's what the atmopshere hinges on. Our server was pleasantly unpushy and friendly but also attentive - just what you want to go with your slow cookin'. The restaurant management either has done
a good job recruiting or they've done a great job instilling a warm and fun culture in only a few weeks of existence, or both. Some details were missed, such as empty waters or a lack of extra plates for sharing. But they did other things to "go the extra mile": they repeatedly brought fresh new mugs of good tasting coffee and nearly ran after us when we had left a magazine at the table. It was clear that they cared; it almost seemed like they embodied the youth of the restaurant and were working hard to establish themselves. Sometimes, the food takes a back seat (or a sideseat) when the people are so pleasant.Bottom line is, if are you looking for barbeque then you've got a solid option in Wildwood. The menu is manageable and pleasantly straightforward, not too many items but all the ones that you're looking for. The food doesn't astound but it'll satisfy your bbq fix, and the experience is versatile so you can go there for a variety of non-vegetarian occasions. The service is fun and relaxed - just what you want when you walk in the door. Hopefully they can figure out a way to retain more juiciness in their meats and add better sauces on the table but all in all, you'll get your money's worth.
Monday, May 19, 2008
City View
5/17/2008
San Francisco, Financial District/Chinatown: 662 Commercial St - (415) 398-2838
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 7
Full Review:
The "Best Dim Sum" can be a contentious topic, like best bbq, best ramen, or best pizza. At a certain point, it's a subjective judgment that hinges on personal taste, social context, and also chance. The fact is, there are a lot of places that will send you off with a pleasantly/painfully full stomach and you'll have gotten your fix. What sets one place above another is in your mind's eye. At City View, the food was at a quality that I could not help but be pleased with - but what impressed me most was the friendly service and cleanliness; both things that I do not find often in my dim sum runs in NYC. City View had the best service I've seen in a US Chinese restaurant. As a result, I could relax, feel like I wasn't being rushed or pressured in any way, and feel like they actually wanted me there.
None of the food disappointed, save for the soup dumplings which, though tasty, actually had little if any soup. Shrimp wrapped in clear noodle was flavorful and firm texture, not leathery or tough. The pork dumplings were particularly delicious. Shumai also good. Gyoza were average. And the deep-fried sesame balls and a quenelle-shaped rice cakes with pork filling - extremely good. The chicken feet were tender with intense marrow/fat flavor of chicken. I feel confident in saying that anything you get, you'll like. I think you'll inevitably feel a bit heavy after eating a lot of dim sum, but I didn't leave City View feeling unhealthy. Best of all, I didn't get the feeling of having eaten a bag of salt, like I often do with cheap Chinese joints that kill it with msg.
To be fair, City View charges more than most dim sum restaurants in New York's Chinatown: I ate for $25/person, but you could probably eat just as much for $15/person in other places. What you pay for - and get - is a clean environment, welcoming, friendly service, and quality, tasty dim sum that tastes as good as any out there in SF or NYC. Whether it's the best I've ever had, I don't know. It's entirely possible that it tasted better in my head because I enjoyed the service and the surroundings, and so I wanted to like it. To be honest, it doesn't matter because I appreciated City View, whatever the reason.
San Francisco, Financial District/Chinatown: 662 Commercial St - (415) 398-2838
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 7
Full Review:
The "Best Dim Sum" can be a contentious topic, like best bbq, best ramen, or best pizza. At a certain point, it's a subjective judgment that hinges on personal taste, social context, and also chance. The fact is, there are a lot of places that will send you off with a pleasantly/painfully full stomach and you'll have gotten your fix. What sets one place above another is in your mind's eye. At City View, the food was at a quality that I could not help but be pleased with - but what impressed me most was the friendly service and cleanliness; both things that I do not find often in my dim sum runs in NYC. City View had the best service I've seen in a US Chinese restaurant. As a result, I could relax, feel like I wasn't being rushed or pressured in any way, and feel like they actually wanted me there.
None of the food disappointed, save for the soup dumplings which, though tasty, actually had little if any soup. Shrimp wrapped in clear noodle was flavorful and firm texture, not leathery or tough. The pork dumplings were particularly delicious. Shumai also good. Gyoza were average. And the deep-fried sesame balls and a quenelle-shaped rice cakes with pork filling - extremely good. The chicken feet were tender with intense marrow/fat flavor of chicken. I feel confident in saying that anything you get, you'll like. I think you'll inevitably feel a bit heavy after eating a lot of dim sum, but I didn't leave City View feeling unhealthy. Best of all, I didn't get the feeling of having eaten a bag of salt, like I often do with cheap Chinese joints that kill it with msg.
To be fair, City View charges more than most dim sum restaurants in New York's Chinatown: I ate for $25/person, but you could probably eat just as much for $15/person in other places. What you pay for - and get - is a clean environment, welcoming, friendly service, and quality, tasty dim sum that tastes as good as any out there in SF or NYC. Whether it's the best I've ever had, I don't know. It's entirely possible that it tasted better in my head because I enjoyed the service and the surroundings, and so I wanted to like it. To be honest, it doesn't matter because I appreciated City View, whatever the reason.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Elementi
5/11/2008
Park Slope: 140 7th Ave (btwn Carroll and Garfield) - (718) 788-8388
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 5
Full Review:
Elimenti is a peculiar new restaurant in Park Slope whose strength is its food and weakness is its lack of character and identity. I'd go there for its food and its chef are very good, but don't expect a particulary memorable overall dining experience. Elementi won't inspire that fondness of your favorite bbq joint, cozy neighborhood nook, or Cheers bar.
It's a fancy looking, large, and centrally located space in a hip area of the Slope that certainly catches the eye when you stroll by. The food sounds delicious and refined with interesting but not overwhelming ingredients ("Lobster meat, Prosecco wine, chives in shell consomme"). But when you peer into the place, it seems devoid of character, soul. The website bills the food as "pan-Italian" but to me that says more 'Olive Garden' than 'serious food establishment.' 
When you walk-in, you see a large piece of art which is nice, but features the word "Brooklyn" in different ways and has nothing to do with Italy. On the inside, there are non-descript posters on the wall that maybe vaguely recall Italy. To be frank, this could have been French or Spanish or any other type of modernish restaurant and I would have believed it. When I walked out, it left me thinking, "I don't really know what that place was going for" and it wasn't until I looked at the website afterwards that I found out.
As for decor, it's expensive, clean, and modern looking, but at the same time, everything is a dreary brownish color. When there aren't that many people there, it looks lonely. Even when they do have some tables filled, there's something about the interior layout that makes it look sparse, not cozy, with nothing in particular drawing you in. In a word, it's drab. So when I found this place a couple months back when it opened, I read the menu out front and thought - man, I bet that this food is really good but I don't really want to go in there.
For brunch, I had a frittata wth white onions and bacon. The saltiness of the bacon and sweetness of the onion make it nice and it's affordable at $9. The egg was a little overcooked and chewy but most fritattas I've had have been like that. The dish came with some home fries, which were tender but fairly standard and too greasy, and a simple salad which was fine, nothing special there either. The best plate was the endive salad appetizer, which was quite good and included delicious, crunchy, salted walnuts, a beet dressing, slices of red beet, and its usual companion, goat cheese. The endives were sliced into thin, crisp batons and presented attractively and generously on the dish. It's a refreshing, different kind of salad with great taste and texture. Overall, I don't think you'd be disappointed if you came here for brunch, but it's not a must-go brunch spot. The brunch menu isnt inspiring or fun - it's pretty ordinary.
Service at Elementi is friendly enough and we were greeted with a warm smile at the door, but at the table, the servers were uncoordinated, inattentive to details, and not personable. I cannot recall any introduction from our servers, banter, or friendly conversation. They weren't rude, but just - and this is a theme for this restaurant - lacked character. They missed details such as my missing fork or empty water glasses. A side of honey was brought out in a platic cup that you get your mustard in at Shake Shack. Immediately after we ordered drinks, a different server came to ask us our drink order.
When a busser was clearing the appetizer, she asked me if I had ordered more food, and took that as a cue to leave my silverware. We difficulty flagging down passing staff for the bill (effective waitstaff should constantly scan the room like hawks for things to take care of, people who're looking for help). Amdist a busy service, I can understand a few slip-ups and generally I like to give servers a benefit of the doubt rather than criticize - but it wasn't particularly busy when all this was happening. Luckily, service can improve and as it is now, Elementi's is not a fatal weakness, but it's definitely not a selling point.
Elementi isn't a restaurant that I could fall in love with partly because it's so ambiguous. But I do like the restaurant, its menu, and its very reasonable prices. I'm rooting for it because if they can inject some life, some soul, into the place, and they can improve the service, it will allow the food to be showcased in an environment it deserves. Elementi has the potential to be a place that helps the Brooklyn food scene creep up in prestige. But even if it stays the same and its execution does not meet its ambitious goals, I consider it a positive addition to Park Slope.
Park Slope: 140 7th Ave (btwn Carroll and Garfield) - (718) 788-8388
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 5
Full Review:
Elimenti is a peculiar new restaurant in Park Slope whose strength is its food and weakness is its lack of character and identity. I'd go there for its food and its chef are very good, but don't expect a particulary memorable overall dining experience. Elementi won't inspire that fondness of your favorite bbq joint, cozy neighborhood nook, or Cheers bar.
It's a fancy looking, large, and centrally located space in a hip area of the Slope that certainly catches the eye when you stroll by. The food sounds delicious and refined with interesting but not overwhelming ingredients ("Lobster meat, Prosecco wine, chives in shell consomme"). But when you peer into the place, it seems devoid of character, soul. The website bills the food as "pan-Italian" but to me that says more 'Olive Garden' than 'serious food establishment.' 
When you walk-in, you see a large piece of art which is nice, but features the word "Brooklyn" in different ways and has nothing to do with Italy. On the inside, there are non-descript posters on the wall that maybe vaguely recall Italy. To be frank, this could have been French or Spanish or any other type of modernish restaurant and I would have believed it. When I walked out, it left me thinking, "I don't really know what that place was going for" and it wasn't until I looked at the website afterwards that I found out.As for decor, it's expensive, clean, and modern looking, but at the same time, everything is a dreary brownish color. When there aren't that many people there, it looks lonely. Even when they do have some tables filled, there's something about the interior layout that makes it look sparse, not cozy, with nothing in particular drawing you in. In a word, it's drab. So when I found this place a couple months back when it opened, I read the menu out front and thought - man, I bet that this food is really good but I don't really want to go in there.
For brunch, I had a frittata wth white onions and bacon. The saltiness of the bacon and sweetness of the onion make it nice and it's affordable at $9. The egg was a little overcooked and chewy but most fritattas I've had have been like that. The dish came with some home fries, which were tender but fairly standard and too greasy, and a simple salad which was fine, nothing special there either. The best plate was the endive salad appetizer, which was quite good and included delicious, crunchy, salted walnuts, a beet dressing, slices of red beet, and its usual companion, goat cheese. The endives were sliced into thin, crisp batons and presented attractively and generously on the dish. It's a refreshing, different kind of salad with great taste and texture. Overall, I don't think you'd be disappointed if you came here for brunch, but it's not a must-go brunch spot. The brunch menu isnt inspiring or fun - it's pretty ordinary.
Service at Elementi is friendly enough and we were greeted with a warm smile at the door, but at the table, the servers were uncoordinated, inattentive to details, and not personable. I cannot recall any introduction from our servers, banter, or friendly conversation. They weren't rude, but just - and this is a theme for this restaurant - lacked character. They missed details such as my missing fork or empty water glasses. A side of honey was brought out in a platic cup that you get your mustard in at Shake Shack. Immediately after we ordered drinks, a different server came to ask us our drink order.
When a busser was clearing the appetizer, she asked me if I had ordered more food, and took that as a cue to leave my silverware. We difficulty flagging down passing staff for the bill (effective waitstaff should constantly scan the room like hawks for things to take care of, people who're looking for help). Amdist a busy service, I can understand a few slip-ups and generally I like to give servers a benefit of the doubt rather than criticize - but it wasn't particularly busy when all this was happening. Luckily, service can improve and as it is now, Elementi's is not a fatal weakness, but it's definitely not a selling point.
Elementi isn't a restaurant that I could fall in love with partly because it's so ambiguous. But I do like the restaurant, its menu, and its very reasonable prices. I'm rooting for it because if they can inject some life, some soul, into the place, and they can improve the service, it will allow the food to be showcased in an environment it deserves. Elementi has the potential to be a place that helps the Brooklyn food scene creep up in prestige. But even if it stays the same and its execution does not meet its ambitious goals, I consider it a positive addition to Park Slope.
Sunday, February 17, 2008
Market Table
2/17/2008
West Village: 54 Carmine (and Bedford) - (212) 255-2100
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 7
The quick and dirty:
Market Table offers a sophisticated yet comfy and unstuffy atmosphere with the food to match. The point of this place isn’t to hit you over the head with dazzlingly complicated cooking, décor, or service; instead Market Table makes small twists on the food here and there, but stays simple and refined – and the return is high quality. It’s not food to impress; it’s food done right, and that should impress.
The menu is small and the dishes are straightforward – a carefully selected handful of ingredients in each dish, cooked to maximize their own essence. This is a sophisticated and challenging kind of cooking that lets food be itself.
I had the seared halibut on a bed of home fries and rock shrimp (interesting combo – despite what I say in the paragraph above, I’m not sure yet how they tie) and caramelized onion. It tasted good - crispy on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside - but as fish at restaurants often does, it left me feeling like I could have prepared the dish at home. There was no special sauce, no special spice, just good salt and pepper seasoning. The bed it sat on was oversalted and the peculiar rock shrimp/potato combo was in the end not much different from good home fries at brunch. But in retrospect, I blame my selection, not the restaurant. It’s just not what I wanted but it’s exactly what I ordered, save the extra salt. If I had to do it again, I’d get the blood orange salad appetizer and the burger, the strip steak or the braised lamb shank.
The service was fine and friendly, but nothing extraordinary. At the same time, this is meant to be a casual atmosphere, so as long as the plates are cleared, the cups are filled, the bread is there, and the server can answer some questions on the menu, I’m cool with that.
Full Review:
Market Table, a combo effort of chefs of the Mermaid Inn and the Little Owl, offers a sophisticated yet comfy and unstuffy atmosphere with the food to match. The place isn’t woefully original – the interior feels familiar, feels like it has been done before. The theme is a small grocery/deli connected to the restaurant, I suppose, so that you can see and buy what they use. Big deal. I think Blue Hill, in the same neighborhood, sourcing from a farm upstate is a much cooler concept.
But there’s something to be said of a place that doesn’t try too hard to be something it’s not, and likewise to make its food something it’s not. The point of this place isn’t to hit you over the head with dazzlingly complicated cooking, décor, or service; instead Market Table makes small twists on the food here and there, but stays simple and refined, close to the style of its owners – and the return is high quality. It’s not food to impress; it’s food done right, and that should impress.
The menu is small (7 entrees) and I had no problem with that – the last thing I want is a place that claims to do steak, sushi, burritos, and falafel. Besides, if the menu was any longer, it would only have made it more stressful to choose from all the delicious sounding plates.
The dishes are similar to the Little Owl’s in their simplicity – a carefully selected handful of ingredients in each dish, cooked to maximize their own essence. In my mind, this is the most sophisticated and challenging kind of cooking – the kind that lets food be itself. It shows discipline and a real understanding of taste. It’s often easier to mask the core ingredients of a dish with 12 additional vegetables, some bright yellow mango and 47 spicy spices – think Emeril Live. If you make the food sufficiently unrecognizable and the flavors sufficiently confusing, then you might get the benefit of the doubt that it’s actually good. Thankfully, Market Table does not lean on that crutch.
I had the seared halibut. Below it sat home fries and rock shrimp (interesting combo – despite what I say in the paragraph above, I’m not sure yet how they tie) and caramelized onion. It tasted good - crispy on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside - but as fish at restaurants often does, it left me feeling like I could have prepared the dish at home. There was no special sauce, no special spice, just good salt and pepper seasoning. The bed it sat on was oversalted and the peculiar rock shrimp/potato combo was in the end not much different from good home fries at brunch. But in retrospect, I blame my selection, not the restaurant. It’s just not what I wanted but it’s exactly what I ordered, save the extra salt.
I have no doubt that given another chance, I’d do a better job ordering something I really want and that Market Table would deliver a very nice meal. Based on my surveillance of other tables, I would get the blood orange salad appetizer and the burger, the strip steak or the braised lamb shank. Maybe I’ll just get all of them.
The service was fine and friendly, but nothing extraordinary. It’s a missed opportunity for a restaurant when its service doesn’t add a little character to the place. At the same time, this is meant to be a casual atmosphere, so as long as the plates are cleared, the cups are filled, the bread is there, and the server can answer some questions on the menu, well I’m cool with that.
The West Village has become riddled with a slew of regrettable, cheap restaurants and bars of the tourist-trap, Caliente Cab Co variety. Of course, there’s still a laundry list of great places, from low to high price. But it never hurts to see one more for the good guys.
West Village: 54 Carmine (and Bedford) - (212) 255-2100
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 7
The quick and dirty:
Market Table offers a sophisticated yet comfy and unstuffy atmosphere with the food to match. The point of this place isn’t to hit you over the head with dazzlingly complicated cooking, décor, or service; instead Market Table makes small twists on the food here and there, but stays simple and refined – and the return is high quality. It’s not food to impress; it’s food done right, and that should impress.
The menu is small and the dishes are straightforward – a carefully selected handful of ingredients in each dish, cooked to maximize their own essence. This is a sophisticated and challenging kind of cooking that lets food be itself.
I had the seared halibut on a bed of home fries and rock shrimp (interesting combo – despite what I say in the paragraph above, I’m not sure yet how they tie) and caramelized onion. It tasted good - crispy on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside - but as fish at restaurants often does, it left me feeling like I could have prepared the dish at home. There was no special sauce, no special spice, just good salt and pepper seasoning. The bed it sat on was oversalted and the peculiar rock shrimp/potato combo was in the end not much different from good home fries at brunch. But in retrospect, I blame my selection, not the restaurant. It’s just not what I wanted but it’s exactly what I ordered, save the extra salt. If I had to do it again, I’d get the blood orange salad appetizer and the burger, the strip steak or the braised lamb shank.
The service was fine and friendly, but nothing extraordinary. At the same time, this is meant to be a casual atmosphere, so as long as the plates are cleared, the cups are filled, the bread is there, and the server can answer some questions on the menu, I’m cool with that.
Full Review:
Market Table, a combo effort of chefs of the Mermaid Inn and the Little Owl, offers a sophisticated yet comfy and unstuffy atmosphere with the food to match. The place isn’t woefully original – the interior feels familiar, feels like it has been done before. The theme is a small grocery/deli connected to the restaurant, I suppose, so that you can see and buy what they use. Big deal. I think Blue Hill, in the same neighborhood, sourcing from a farm upstate is a much cooler concept.
But there’s something to be said of a place that doesn’t try too hard to be something it’s not, and likewise to make its food something it’s not. The point of this place isn’t to hit you over the head with dazzlingly complicated cooking, décor, or service; instead Market Table makes small twists on the food here and there, but stays simple and refined, close to the style of its owners – and the return is high quality. It’s not food to impress; it’s food done right, and that should impress.
The menu is small (7 entrees) and I had no problem with that – the last thing I want is a place that claims to do steak, sushi, burritos, and falafel. Besides, if the menu was any longer, it would only have made it more stressful to choose from all the delicious sounding plates.
The dishes are similar to the Little Owl’s in their simplicity – a carefully selected handful of ingredients in each dish, cooked to maximize their own essence. In my mind, this is the most sophisticated and challenging kind of cooking – the kind that lets food be itself. It shows discipline and a real understanding of taste. It’s often easier to mask the core ingredients of a dish with 12 additional vegetables, some bright yellow mango and 47 spicy spices – think Emeril Live. If you make the food sufficiently unrecognizable and the flavors sufficiently confusing, then you might get the benefit of the doubt that it’s actually good. Thankfully, Market Table does not lean on that crutch.
I had the seared halibut. Below it sat home fries and rock shrimp (interesting combo – despite what I say in the paragraph above, I’m not sure yet how they tie) and caramelized onion. It tasted good - crispy on the outside, tender and juicy on the inside - but as fish at restaurants often does, it left me feeling like I could have prepared the dish at home. There was no special sauce, no special spice, just good salt and pepper seasoning. The bed it sat on was oversalted and the peculiar rock shrimp/potato combo was in the end not much different from good home fries at brunch. But in retrospect, I blame my selection, not the restaurant. It’s just not what I wanted but it’s exactly what I ordered, save the extra salt.
I have no doubt that given another chance, I’d do a better job ordering something I really want and that Market Table would deliver a very nice meal. Based on my surveillance of other tables, I would get the blood orange salad appetizer and the burger, the strip steak or the braised lamb shank. Maybe I’ll just get all of them.
The service was fine and friendly, but nothing extraordinary. It’s a missed opportunity for a restaurant when its service doesn’t add a little character to the place. At the same time, this is meant to be a casual atmosphere, so as long as the plates are cleared, the cups are filled, the bread is there, and the server can answer some questions on the menu, well I’m cool with that.
The West Village has become riddled with a slew of regrettable, cheap restaurants and bars of the tourist-trap, Caliente Cab Co variety. Of course, there’s still a laundry list of great places, from low to high price. But it never hurts to see one more for the good guys.
Saturday, February 16, 2008
Franny's
2/16/2008
Prospect Heights: 295 Flatbush Ave (btwn 6th Ave and 7th Ave) - (718) 230-0221
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 7
Full Review:
New York is known for good pizza but there's actually also a lot of pizza here that kind of sucks. Franny's does not suck, at all. All around, it's one of the best pizza joints I've visited in New York. It's casual, fun, cozy, a little chic, and hip without being hipster. There’s something real about the restaurant, genuine about the people, tasteful about the interior. The smallish joint has contemporary but un-glitzy features and simple light wood furniture. Printed on the window is the restaurant’s name in orange, and that’s it. But somehow there’s nice character to the place. Its medley of rock music, exposed brick walls, and consciously but unpretentiously casual waitstaff all help to make this a friendly, welcoming spot.
The pizza is a notch above in price, but still affordable ($8-16 for a personal pie) and worth it. I had the tomato, anchovy, and parmesan on a simple thin crust. Not all of the choice have tomato sauce and none that I saw were doused with cheese USA-style. As the bartender told me, all of the pies are light. When I was about 13, I had pizza at a place called Sal’s in New Haven, CT, which I understood to be something of an institution there. It might have been the best pizza I’ve ever had and definitely the most memorable. The two things I remember about the cheese-less pizza were: 1) a very thin, soft, and not-rock-hard-but-still-pleasantly crispy crust, and 2) a delicious, garlicky and light tomato sauce with clams. Franny’s is the closest thing I’ve had to both of those things (save the clam).
The pizza was charred black in a few too many places, but that was the probably the only thing that felt unhealthy about the pie. This was refined pizza. It seems that countries with food-rich cultures like Italy have gone thru an evolution - and are particularly remarkable because they have figured out how to make things healthy without sacrificing taste. They've had time to develop a cuisine that can sustain a nation over centuries while still delighting the taste buds. I like to think that a pizza like Franny’s is an emblem of that. What might have started as something that looked like say, Domino’s – a good idea with some elements appealing to the gluttonous side – improved itself over time in both taste and sustainability to become Franny’s. It’s not a fried chicken, it’s healthier than that. And it’s not a turkey burger, it actually tastes good.
Service was laid back, not in your face, not rushed, attentive but laissez-faire. But one thing that didn't impress me was that the server didn’t know what kind of tomato they used for the sauce. (They were San Marzano tomatoes.) For a small menu that specializes in pizza – and a small number of pizzas at that – it’s an elementary piece of knowledge. This kind of thing only matters. to some but service, whether casual or formal, should know the food inside and out, and at least as well as the customer.
I see no reason to keep you from frequenting Franny's and support what they're doing – something both genuine and well-balanced in pretty much every way. Drop in, and expect to find healthy, reasonably priced, tasty food in a very comfortable but cool setting. I'm sure Franny's would kill in the East Village - it's a big win for Park Slope/Prospect Heights community.
Prospect Heights: 295 Flatbush Ave (btwn 6th Ave and 7th Ave) - (718) 230-0221
Price: Mid-Range
Rating (1-10): 7
Full Review:
New York is known for good pizza but there's actually also a lot of pizza here that kind of sucks. Franny's does not suck, at all. All around, it's one of the best pizza joints I've visited in New York. It's casual, fun, cozy, a little chic, and hip without being hipster. There’s something real about the restaurant, genuine about the people, tasteful about the interior. The smallish joint has contemporary but un-glitzy features and simple light wood furniture. Printed on the window is the restaurant’s name in orange, and that’s it. But somehow there’s nice character to the place. Its medley of rock music, exposed brick walls, and consciously but unpretentiously casual waitstaff all help to make this a friendly, welcoming spot.
The pizza is a notch above in price, but still affordable ($8-16 for a personal pie) and worth it. I had the tomato, anchovy, and parmesan on a simple thin crust. Not all of the choice have tomato sauce and none that I saw were doused with cheese USA-style. As the bartender told me, all of the pies are light. When I was about 13, I had pizza at a place called Sal’s in New Haven, CT, which I understood to be something of an institution there. It might have been the best pizza I’ve ever had and definitely the most memorable. The two things I remember about the cheese-less pizza were: 1) a very thin, soft, and not-rock-hard-but-still-pleasantly crispy crust, and 2) a delicious, garlicky and light tomato sauce with clams. Franny’s is the closest thing I’ve had to both of those things (save the clam).
The pizza was charred black in a few too many places, but that was the probably the only thing that felt unhealthy about the pie. This was refined pizza. It seems that countries with food-rich cultures like Italy have gone thru an evolution - and are particularly remarkable because they have figured out how to make things healthy without sacrificing taste. They've had time to develop a cuisine that can sustain a nation over centuries while still delighting the taste buds. I like to think that a pizza like Franny’s is an emblem of that. What might have started as something that looked like say, Domino’s – a good idea with some elements appealing to the gluttonous side – improved itself over time in both taste and sustainability to become Franny’s. It’s not a fried chicken, it’s healthier than that. And it’s not a turkey burger, it actually tastes good.
Service was laid back, not in your face, not rushed, attentive but laissez-faire. But one thing that didn't impress me was that the server didn’t know what kind of tomato they used for the sauce. (They were San Marzano tomatoes.) For a small menu that specializes in pizza – and a small number of pizzas at that – it’s an elementary piece of knowledge. This kind of thing only matters. to some but service, whether casual or formal, should know the food inside and out, and at least as well as the customer.
I see no reason to keep you from frequenting Franny's and support what they're doing – something both genuine and well-balanced in pretty much every way. Drop in, and expect to find healthy, reasonably priced, tasty food in a very comfortable but cool setting. I'm sure Franny's would kill in the East Village - it's a big win for Park Slope/Prospect Heights community.
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)
